We're often told that you need a car to drive the Lighthouse Route.
That's not true. And this is one of the few times I've said it so bluntly.
From Brest, you can reach Lilia by tram and then by bus, and you’ll find yourself standing in front of Europe’s tallest lighthouse. No need to hunt for a parking spot or maneuver into a tight spot on a country road. Just a ticket, a bus, and the ocean at the end of the line.
Here's how to do it.
What exactly is the Lighthouse Route?
It is this stretch of coastline in northern Finistère, where lighthouses line up from islet to islet.
The Île Vierge lighthouse. The Île Wrac’h lighthouse. The Aber Wrac’h and Lanvaon lighthouses, which were used to guide ships into the channel. Each had its own function, range, and role in a system designed to prevent boats from running aground on the rocks.
Here, lighthouses weren't built just to look pretty. They were built because people were dying.
The Lighthouse Route can be explored by car, bike, or on foot—or, as I suggest here, by bus.
And ours begins with Lilia.
The Route, in Practical Terms
Take the tram to the Brest bus station. If you're staying at Ty’Brestoise, it's just a stone's throw away.
Next, take the BreizhGo bus, Route 920, Brest ↔ Plouguerneau, operated by Cars des Abers. Get off at the Plouguerneau Lilia stop.
The trip takes about 50 minutes from Brest on the Express service, and a little longer on the regular line, which makes more stops.
A Few Things to Know
- You can buy your ticket on board from the driver. Be sure to have the exact fare ready—you’ll be asked for it. Otherwise, you can also use the M-Ticket app on your smartphone.
- A BreizhGo ticket entitles you to a free one-hour transfer on the Bibus network. In other words, your Brest tram ride is included. Keep your ticket.
- Wave to the driver as the bus approaches. And let the driver know you’re getting off before it stops. On these routes, nothing happens automatically.
- Be careful on Sundays. In recent years, the Lilia stop has not been served on Sundays during the summer. Check before you leave.
🔗 Current schedules and fares: breizhgo.bzh — Line 920
Lilia
About 100 residents.
A dolmen, a church, a harbor. And, out at sea, two of Brittany’s most beautiful lighthouses.
It's small. It's supposed to be small. People don't come here just to check things off a list.
The Île Vierge Lighthouse
From the tip of Kastell Ac’h, just a few minutes’ walk from the bus stop, the view suddenly opens up. Two lighthouses, standing side by side.
The first one dates back to 1845. Stocky, honest, inadequate.
The second one, completed in 1902, is 82.5 meters tall. It is the tallest lighthouse in Europe. And the tallest cut-stone lighthouse in the world.
When you see it from the coast on a windy day, you no longer wonder why it had to be built so high.
⚠️ Can we visit the lighthouse?
No. Not until sometime in 2027.
The interior of the lighthouse is closed for renovations. You won't be able to climb the 397 steps, and you won't see the staircase lined with blue opaline—one of only a few in the world.
I'd rather tell you right away than have you make the trip for nothing.
But you can get there by boat
It’s still possible to reach the island by speedboat. And that’s where I’ll stop you, because that’s the point everyone misses:
The boat schedules change every day.
Not “vary by season.” Not “may change.” They change every day, because they follow the tides. A 10:20 a.m. departure on a Tuesday might become 11:50 a.m. on Wednesday. It’s not a train—it’s the sea that decides.
So: Make a reservation. And check today's schedule, not the one you looked at last week.
This is the most important piece of advice in this article, and it’s the one people tend to overlook the most.
Tides: It's Not Just a Minor Detail
That's the advice I give most often, and the one people follow the least.
Check the conditions and the schedule before you leave.
At low tide, the foreshore stretches out for hundreds of meters. The rocks emerge, the tide pools fill with crabs, and you can see the Menozac’h menhir —submerged at every high tide, planted there seven thousand years ago, when the sea was still far away.
At high tide, you'll see water. It's very beautiful, too. But it's not the same experience, and it's best to make an informed choice.
Where to Eat in Lilia
Two places, right next to each other, both on the tip, both with a view. They're completely different.
🦪 Legris House
20 Kastell Ac’h · Daily, 10 a.m.–10 p.m. · 02 98 04 56 87
An oyster bar overlooking the foreshore. People come here for the oysters, of course—but above all, if you ask me, for the abalones, which are farmed right here. Abalone rillettes are one of the most unique things you’ll ever eat in Brittany.
A great selection of white wines. Outdoor seating. Simple and just right.
🍽️ Grandma Lilia
296 Kervenni Vraz · Daily, 12:00 p.m.–8:30 p.m. · 02 22 90 01 65
Organic cuisine, local produce, and fish caught by the restaurant’s own boat. This is La Table de la Pointe—the place you reserve for a real meal and to watch the sunset, which, from this terrace, is hard to beat.
Make a reservation. Especially in the summer. Especially in the evening.